The Aquatic Slingshot

Every year I enjoy viewing the latest batches of home videos shot at the Wedge. The very first surf video my parents gave me (Amazing Surf Stories) back in 1984 had a section featuring this mutant wave. The images were permanently seared into my young impressionable mind. The Wedge is the surfing equivalent of the Running of the Bulls, except with less people and more bulls. If you surf the Wedge, you will sooner than later get the horn, and then a good trample. Victory comes in the form of making the drop. By chance or extreme skill you get barreled, the goal then is to come out before the backwash or close-out pile-drive you.

I’ve been out there a few times on a bodyboard (I wouldn’t attempt it on a surfboard). The largest I’ve ridden it was a medium-sized day. It’s a weird experience to watch a wave refract off of the jetty and start peeling from the beach back out to sea; it gains strength as it meets the next swell. It’s the only place I’ve surfed that you have to check for skim-boarders flying past you out to sea, before paddling for a wave. Once you get that wave and connect with the peak and pull in, the wave can mutate once again. I once pulled into a tube while watching a wave coming at me from the beach, being rag-dolled was inevitable. It tossed me into the pitching lip and then onto the flats, but I came up smiling and went back for more. I may not be as masochistic as some, but I can appreciate the demented attraction to a wave like this.

Tags: , , , ,

One Response to “The Aquatic Slingshot”

  1. Stacey Says:

    Of course now your wife would have a stroke if you attempted that wave.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: